These Sandals

I am not a "trendy" person; I stick to the looks that flatter and fit my personality. It's just the way I am. But every now and then something a bit out of my ordinary just feels right. A silhouette, a color combination.

You may have noticed on Pinterest or The Sartorialist or seen it mentioned by fashion media outlets: Birkenstocks are back. I first noticed it two years ago when a friend from Toronto was rocking this pair. And it looked awesome. Chic and comfortable. What more could anyone ask for? If they weren't back yet, I knew they were coming...

I wanted a pair last summer, but at around $90 they were more than I cared to spend on sandals. Also, many of the new wave Birks don't have a leather upper, which is a turn off for me. After doing some searching this spring, I found these.

I purchased a white pair and have been wearing them for the last week. They are exceedingly comfortable, and the upper is genuine leather. The silhouette is very similar to the Birks, and they are a fraction of the cost. Regularly priced at $54.99, they are currently on sale for $34.99. I actually only paid $12 for mine, because I had received a mailer with a $10 coupon, and an email with a $10 off $30 purchase coupon, and a 20% off coupon. I hate to brag, but damn that's good!

If you are considering ordering these, just keep in mind that the sizing is a little big. While I normally wear an 8 or an 8.5, I purchased the 7.5 and that fits perfectly.

Some scorn the return of the Birkenstock, hurling insults like "ugly" and "frumpy" but my tired feet are more than ready to jump on this bandwagon. And I disagree with the insults. It all depends on how they are worn (if you want proof, click on the Pinterest link above). So Birkenstock [silhouette] for the win. Not just for hippies and Christian youth leaders anymore.

P.S.  Last week, as soon as I recovered from an epic migraine (and I have never used that adjective before, ever, in my life) a sickness fell upon the baby of the house. The experience has culminated in an asthma diagnosis for him and multiple breathing treatments each day. I hope to be back tomorrow with an installment of pics for the Thirty Day Self Portrait Project. Thanks for hanging in there with me despite less frequent posts!

Spring Wear for Moms

Yesterday I received a really nice comment from a reader - you know who you are - about an old post entitled How Mama Got Her Groove Back (Part II). Long forgotten, I clicked back to see what I would think of something that I did at the very start of this blog. Actually, the advice was really good and practical (if I sound surprised, it's only because I have a tendency to look back and realize how much I didn't know). I almost reprinted it here, but you can just click on the link above if you want to read it.

That same kind reader asked if I had any updates I would make on this "mom dressing" list of sorts. Well, I think everything I said still stands. I still believe wrap dresses are universally flattering, and a blazer and a great bag can elevate the easiest of outfits. So what I thought I would do for today's post is give you a new, current visual of a practical, beautiful "momdrobe" for spring.

V-Neck Tees / Blazer / Blouse / Chambray Top / Jeans / Ankle Pants / Skirt
Dress / Earrings / Watch / Sunglasses / Flats / Heels / Bag

All of these items can be mixed and matched, meaning a few pieces will yield a variety of outfits. And this wardrobe could take the busiest mom from day at home to grocery shopping to date night. Bonus? All of the items are also nursing and postpartum friendly!

These Pants: A Love Song

I love these pants. 

Why?  Let me count the ways... 

First, the cut. Slim, but not too slim. Waist not super low. Hemmed just above the ankle. All in all a fresh and current look.

Second, they are versatile; they go great with flats, heels, loafers, tall boots. This fact makes them a perfect winter-to-spring transition piece. And they can run the range of casual to dressed up.

Third, the fabric. It has a degree of stretch that is both flattering and comfortable. Machine washable wrinkle resistant, and quick drying. I want to take a trip to Europe just so I can pack these pants. Also,  I have washed my pair about six times and they look just like they did the day I purchased them (no small feat for an item from Old Navy). 

Fourth, they are inexpensive. At full price only $34.95, I paid a mere $25. Today I clicked on the website and a 30% off code popped up immediately.

Fifth, the variety. Currently I only have the black (black is sort of my thing), but they come in eleven colors and patterns. Eleven.

And before I bid you adieu, I want to say one quick thing about the sizing. It's messed up. And by that I mean really inconsistent. I was one size in a blue pair, and a different in the black. So if you check these out, try on several pairs, and don't let it ruin your day if you don't end up with the size you expected.

Linking up with The Moxie Wife's Five Favorites. Head on over for more favorites!

Back to Basics: Body Type

As promised last week, today we're talking style basics, specifically, body type. It goes without saying that every body is different, and categorizing such a diverse reality is difficult. Since this is a blog post, and I can't meet all of you individually, we're going to keep it real simple, and hopefully clear. Once you have the general principles down, you can work within them and from them to get a real grasp of your own unique silhouette as it appears to others.

So first, a brief explanation of body type and a listing of the four basic types (some people use a system of six or more types, but I'm giving you the four most recognized and most useful classifications). Body type is related to proportion, specifically one's bust, waist, and hips in relation to one another, and also one's weight loss and gain patterns (i.e. where you lose last and gain first, and vice versa). Body type is not size. You can be a size 2 or a size 20, and be any of the four body types.

The four basic types are Pear, Heart, Box, and Hourglass. Each body type has the general silhouette of the name that identifies it. For greater clarification, the characteristics of each are as follows: 

PEAR: A pear shape is characterized by a proportionally larger lower body. The pear shaped person may or may not have narrow or sloping shoulders that add to this appearance of disproportion between upper and lower body. Weight is carried in the lower body, and is usually gained in the hips, thighs and buttocks first, and lost there last. 

HEART: A heart shape is characterized by a proportionally larger upper body, as a result of broad shoulders and/or a fuller bust, and a narrow waist and thinner legs. Weight is usually carried in the middle.

BOX: A box shape is characterized by bust (or possibly shoulder), waist, and hip measurements that are nearly identical. This body type has no clearly defined waist.

HOURGLASS: An hourglass shape is characterized by bust and hips that are evenly proportioned to  one another, and to the waist. The hourglass shaped person will usually gain and lose weight evenly in her upper and lower body. 

Substitue the word "BOX" for "BANANA"  // image via

Now to determine one's own body type. There are many online body type "calculators" and formulas to determine one's body type. After trying various methods, I have found that the simplest, most productive way to determine one's basic body shape is as follows (this is as taught to me by Mary at ISY Fashion and Communication):

First, take your measurements au naturel. Use a flexible tape measure and measure around your bust at its widest point, your waist at its narrowest point, and your hips by going around the largest point of the buttocks.

image via

Next, ask yourself these questions. Is your hip measurement two inches or greater than your bust? If so, stop reading these questions and skip ahead, because you have a PEAR shape. If not, is your bust measurement two inches or greater than your hip measurement? If so, then stop reading. You have a HEART shape. If you have answered "no" to both questions, and your hip measurement is eight inches greater than your waist, you have an HOURGLASS body type. If your hip measurement is less than eight inches greater than your waist, you are a BOX body type.

Keep in mind that each of our bodies is more than our bust, waist, and hip measurements. Some have long arms, a short neck, narrow shoulders, long legs, a short torso, etc, etc; we are each made of a unique combination of these elements. Any one of these other body elements (though some more than others), can alter the way the eye perceives an overall body shape. Once you have determined your basic body shape, consider these secondary aspects to get the fullest picture of your silhouette.

Okay, so now you know which category you fall into, but you may still be wondering why knowing your body type is important to dressing well and looking your best. Well, the human eye finds proportionality pleasing. Furthermore, if a figure is proportionate, no one individual feature is highlighted and the face remains the focal point. This is a good thing, ladies!  Yet, very few of us have a "perfectly" proportioned figure. So what's a girl to do? Create the illusion of proportion through dress! Knowing  one's body type helps us know what to minimize and what to maximize to achieve this illusion.

Join me next week for some style basics on how to use line, color, print, and texture to "create" proportion. 

And P.S. This recent post from Garance reminded me how common it is for us women to idealize a body type that isn't our own, especially at the expense of our own. Why does that damn grass always have to seem greener...

Pregnancy Style Stealers

There are certain style quandaries that arise with pregnancy. Some of the them sneak up on a mama-to-be because they happen so gradually, others are shocking and impossible to ignore. Since I am currently in the throes of pregnancy number four (!), I can both commiserate and share some wisdom that I've gained over the last six years. If I had to sum up this advice, I would lay it out something like this: 

Don't abandon your own style. This can be a real temptation especially if maternity wear options are limited in your area, or your budget is very tight. Resist! Make boards on Pinterest of maternity fashions that you actually like, and try to get creative using what is available to you.

Be careful of too short shirts.  This style stealer is a sneaky one; it can happen soooo quickly!

Be careful of fabric that is too thin. I occasionally find a find or two at Old Navy, but this week when I stopped by their maternity section the shirts were borderline transparent. Transparent. The childbearing body is beautiful, but nothing makes me more uncomfortable than every bump and bulge being on display, as is the case with dresses made of too thin fabric. Too thin tops also look cheap, in more ways than one....

Be careful of the plunging neckline. A lot of maternity clothing employs the plunging neckline because it is easier for nursing post birth, because women want to flaunt their new pregnancy "assets" (I can hear you thinking, "I'm only an A cup, this doesn't apply to me." I say, for now you are an A cup. Milk, it does a body good..), and because some space in a collar line can be really flattering and effective in drawing the eye up. But. These necklines, on a person in motion, can be very revealing and uncomfortable. Constantly adjusting to prevent a wardrobe malfunction is not stylish. And as far as nursing goes, I never found it that difficult to accomplish in "regular" shirts.

Be careful of pulling and gapping in shirt buttons. This advice is along the same vein as the previous two points. Bigger girls can leave one prone to unintentional peep shows when shirts just won't stay closed. I always check this aspect before buying. It's a deal breaker.

Avoid maternity jeans with "feathering" across the thighs. Lighter embellishments and/or horizontal lines draw negative attention to the widest point of the leg. Since most of us don't gain just a belly as pregnancy progresses, maternity jeans in a dark wash with no feathering is the most slenderizing way to go.

Invest in some good undergarments. Avoid lines and "spilling over" by wearing the proper size undergarment. I know it can be a difficult fact to face that one's underwear just doesn't fit the way it used to, but as the saying goes, the truth will set you free. For special occasions that involve dresses and skirts, invest in a pair of these for a seamless look. I'm absolutely serious.

Five Favorite Basic Pieces

If you saw my fall maternity capsule wardrobe, or my regular mom uniform, you probably surmised that these are the clothes I wear most. The clothes for daily activities around the house and with the kids, trips to the playground and the grocery store. The look is polished casual, with comfort and function heavily in mind. But we all get out sometime, no matter how deep we are in the mommy trenches. Maybe you work part time, maybe you belong to a school or community committee, maybe church is a dress up affair, or maybe you want to step things up on date night. Whatever the case, we all need some clothes that go beyond the basics.

In my own experience, there are often two temptations for [mostly stay at home] moms in this department: either this aspect of dressing is ignored, which results in no options and panic for those special occasions, or too much is invested here, and too often in a sort of aspirational spending. I think the key to this dilemna is to find five basic pieces that can be mixed, matched (with each other and pieces from your casual wardrobe) and accessorized to keep you looking up to date and ready for anything.

To do an illustration of these five favorites, I have chosen a color story that really appeals to me - black, navy, white and blush - but there is an endless assortment of color combinations possible to meet other personal tastes and complexions. The five favorite basics are:

the blazer

the cropped pants (matching the blazer)

the pencil skirt 

the sheath dress

pointy pumps

image via polyvore

A few words about the items I have chosen. The blazer and cropped trousers are both from Mango; the jacket has sold out since I made this set last night! There are lots of options out there, get thyself to polyvore and look around! When searching for a blazer that flatters, look for one that has a button at your narrowest point, fits well in the shoulders, isn't too long in the sleeves, and doesn't hit too low on the hips (this is especially important if you are a pear body type). Lined is better than unlined, but it all depends on your budget.

The pencil skirt is from Dorothy Perkins and is a steal at only $21! This is a fairly flattering silhouette more most body types, yet I think alot of young women haven't really tried the pencil skirt. I recommend purchasing one on the inexpensive side first to get an idea of how well it will fit into your life and existing wardrobe. The pencil really is versatile; you can wear it with a blouse or v-neck tee, a sweater (like the semi-cropped one above, also from Dorothy Perkins), or a blazer.

This sheath dress (available in navy, black and cream)  is also from Dorothy Perkins, and again, a steal at only $39! Very elegant in an understated way, the back features an exposed zipper, which I love, and can be dressed up or down, and layered under and over depending on the occasion and weather.

And finally, pointy pumps. I ran into this pair by Nine West at the local outlet mall and I couldn't believe how chic they looked at that price point - $79 online and even cheaper and $20-$30 cheaper at the outlet! They are real leather and available in ten colors! This particular pair has a three inch heel, but there are lower and higher options to suit personal preference. These shoes would look great with each of the three basic bottoms.

Though we are focusing on the five basics, I have included some accessories in the set just to give you an idea of how you could dress up your basics. Pearls are simple, elegant, and great looking cheap options are ubiquitous. I also really love cuff bracelets (see Polyvore set for links) because they are unfussy and bold, and can really tie an outfit together. If you have been reading this blog for awhile, you know how I feel about great bags. This gorgeous blush foldover bag from Zara is 100% leather and comes in at under $100 - my kind of bag.

What do you think? 

Now go see Hallie for more five favorites!

Wardrobe Building: My Fall Maternity Capsule

Here in Buffalo we have had a few weeks of cool weather (down as low as 50 at night!) and my mind has turned to warmer dressing. Personal stylist that I am, I decided to plan my fall maternity wardrobe. Here is how I did it, and what I ended up with. I hope this helps as you start your own fall planning!

First, I made a Pinterest board of things I like, focusing especially on maternity styles. It became obvious very quickly that I wanted lots of dark neutrals, streamlined looks, and structure around the face (think scarves, necklaces, interesting collars).

Next, I pulled out my bin of maternity clothes that I have collected over the last three pregnancies. I mercilessly discarded anything that was worn out. I also pulled out lots of bottoms that I just haven't worn since my first pregnancy. I gained a bit more weight the first time around (mainly because I wasn't always chasing toddlers), and have kept these pants "just in case." Well, I haven't needed them thus far, and they are taking up too much space. I created a pile to consign at a local maternity store. Hopefully I will make some $$ for my wish list!

Now that so many useless (to me) items were cleared out of the way, I could see that I had more great pieces than I originally believed. By working in some of my non-maternity items, I came up with an eight piece  (plus accessories and shoes) capsule wardrobe that should see me through the fall and into winter. Many of my items aren't available since they were purchased previously, but I have found similar versions, in case you want to replicate the look.

THE CAPSULE

Black Blazer (non-maternity)

Long Sleeve Tees in navy and black (maternity)

Black Turtleneck (maternity)

Boyfriend V-neck Tees (non-maternity)

Old Navy Demi-Panel Slim Boot-Cut Jeans (in Dark Wash)

Old Navy Smooth Panel Skinny Jeans (in Black)

Twill Wrap

Wide Black Stretch Belt (this is just one choice, wide stretch belts are everywhere)

Fugu Malibu Booties (I just realized these are no longer available, somewhat similar here)

THE WISH LIST

In addition to this capsule, I created a wish list of sorts, items that I need (new flats and full panel pants) or just want (statement necklace and watch). Now I know where to spend the money in my clothing budget, and my how to allocate any bonus cash that comes my way (come on consignment!).

The perfect black or camel pointy toe leather flat (picky, who me?!). My favorite flats wore out in the spring, and I want a pair with a pointed toe and a deep cut foot opening (think toe cleavage). Both features serve to elongate the the line of the body,  and give an elegant look to the foot. I like the look of the shoe below, the only problem is that the leather is vegan. The search continues.

A statement necklace.  I usually go very low key with accessories, but this wardrobe is super simple, and I want to draw attention up to my face. A statement necklace is a great way to do just that. The Banana Republic Silver Link Necklace is taunting me, but a word to the wise: Never pay full price at BR. They frequently have percentage off days, often up to 40% (couple that with the item going on sale, and hot damn!).

A man's watch. Not just any watch. I have my eye on my husband's Seiko Arctura Kinetic watch, which is a fool's dream because he wears it every day. Why a big watch? I have long arms and thin wrists, and a big ol' watch would draw attention to that feature, one of the few that doesn't expand as the weeks go by.

Dark wash jeans with a full belly panel. Once my belly reaches a certain girth, I just like the comfort of a full panel. I'm in the market for a great fitting pair in a really dark wash. And I want to be able to try them on before I purchase, so I'll probably hit up the local maternity places (meaning Old Navy, H & M, and maybe Motherhood) first. I've kind of got my eye on this pair, if the flare isn't too extreme and the wash is decently dark.

What do you think? Want to read more about budget wardrobe building? Check out these posts!

Bags on a Budget

If you joined us on Wednesday, you may remember that I promised to show you my seven favorite bags on a budget. Well. It's really hard to narrow something like favorite and bags down to just seven, so I may have to modify my claim to "seven bags that I really like!" Here they are, in no particular order... 

Latico Dannie Two Tone Tote (also in black/grey) - $69.94 (!!!)

Fossil Austin Large Flap Crossbody - $129.99

Plusminus Small Boston Tote (Amazon) - $79

Cole Haan Haven Tote - $149-$248 (depending on color choice)

Perlina Farah Tote - Red or White: $139 (Black: $119 here)

Fossil Zoey Tote - $130.99 (other colors available)

iCarryAlls Three-Way Convertible Bag (Amazon) - $68 (!!!)

So what do you think of my selections? Bags on a budget is turning out to be quite the topic; come see me in the next few weeks for more tips on where to find a deal, and how to find the bag that's right for your body type.

Have a great weekend everyone, and head on over to Jen for more "sevens"!

How To Look Expensive: Invest in a Great Bag

Thank you for joining me for another installment of How to Look Expensive. Here it is: Invest in a great bag. And by "great bag" I mean a bag that you love, a bag that is made to last, a bag that is versatile, a bag that is classic without being boring, a bag that is functional. I admit, it's a tall order, especially if you are on a budget. That's why I want to make sure I have you convinced, and give you a few tips for success. Allons-y.

Arguments for a great bag. In the long run, buying a more expensive, high quality bag will save you money. There are bags in quality materials to be had for less than $130. Cheaper bags à la Target usually start around $30. If your budget is tight, $30 is $30, and I'm sure you don't want to keep shelling it out over and over as your bag wears out. Even if it is still functioning (i.e. the straps haven't broken), a poor quality bag will start looking raggedy and will not help you look expensive.

Another argument. A great bag will elevate the simplest of outfits. As long as the fit is good, Old Navy jeans and a Target tee will look like a million bucks when paired with a leather bag. And there is no reason not to keep a great bag for years; you may outgrow you favorite jeans, but a few extra pounds won't make a new bag necessary.

My great bag: a pebbled camel leather tote from Banana Republic, unfortunately no longer available.

Now for some tips to get you started and to help you make a smart purchase:

Be honest about how much space you need and what style suits your lifestyle. If you are a busy mom you will probably need something that allows you to go hands free from time to time, and provides enough space for all of the "mom stuff," like diapers and wipes.

Choose the color carefully. Look at the color story of your wardrobe, and  evaluate what would work best with with the majority of your wardrobe. If you wear mainly neutrals, a bright bag might be best for you, a statement piece that becomes part of your signature look. If you love patterns and colors, a neutral that complements your prominent color scheme might be the way to go.

Don't forget the hardware. I have a cool complexion, so I look best in silver, and therefore 95% of my jewelry is silver, stainless, or white gold. It just makes sense to keep things cohesive and choose a bag with compatible hardware. Also, pay attention to the quality of the hardware. Sometimes even leather bags with leather bag prices have cheap zippers, clasps, etc that can take away from the bag's overall appearance.

Pay attention to the material. Not all leather is created equal, and not all types of leather wear equally well. It helps to shop above your price range to get a feel (literally, sometimes) for the best quality, and then go from there. Also keep in mind that very smooth leather scratches more easily and therefore shows wear more readily. Conversely, pebbled or textured leather more discreetly absorbs wear and tear.

Avoid the bags that are prone to being "knocked off." You know the type, items like the ubiquitous Coach bag with the multidirectional c's. Best case scenario, you spend lots of money to look just like everybody else, worst case you are duped into buying a fake.

Avoid bags that are too "trendy." I don't mean that we all have to buy a classic Kelly bag. But. I would not spend $100 plus on a leather bag in a neon color. Unless you love neon colors in and out of their trendy phases. You have to know yourself and what you really like.

If your budget is very tight, and a leather bag is simply out of the question, I would look for a canvas or nylon bag with leather straps. Straps and handles are the first locus for wear. No matter how good a PU bag is you can almost always tell that it isn't genuine leather by the cracking and splitting that occurs on the handles.

And there you have it! Come see me Friday for my seven favorite bags on a budget!

How To Look Expensive: Embrace Neutrals

If you are just joining us on the series How to Look Expensive, let me give you a quick recap (and see here for the previous post). This series is about being the most put together and polished version of yourself, without breaking the bank. So, onward!

Today's bit of wisdom is simple.  Embrace neutrals. Neutrals are great for lots of reasons. They are timeless, anonymous (if you can't afford designer labels this can be a plus), elegant, grown up, and even a bit mysterious. Neutrals are also difficult to mess up. Think of the little black dress. It's popularity has a reason! And for the girl on a budget, neutrals can be mixed and matched with each other, and with the color of the moment, helping to get the most for your wardrobe dollars.

Some chic takes on rocking the neutral. But remember, when thinking neutrals, don't just dream in black and white. You might be best in brown, beige, sand or navy!
Images via 1 // 2 // 3 

You may hesitate to take my advice on this one, because you don't want to be "boring" or "blah." I am not suggesting that you subtract non-neutral colors from you wardrobe, not at all. But do know your best neutrals, and build your wardrobe from those. And don't be afraid to try an outfit that is all neutrals. No fear ladies, no fear!

Just in case you need a little more convincing, let's do a mental exercise. If I asked you to name some of the 20th century's most stylish women, who would be on your list? I guarantee that Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn, and Jacqueline Kennedy are on the lists of most. These style icons are just three of the many who embraced neutrals and were anything but dull, drab, and boring. In fact, they have come to represent three truly unique ways of being chic.

So next time you are headed out and don't know what to wear, humor me and experiment with a neutral heavy look.

Because I know how much everyone loves visuals, here's a look I wore recently.
LBD: Liz Lange Maternity //Camel clutch: vintage (thrifted)

How To Look Expensive: The Rule of Three

You may remember that some time ago we talked about fashion personality. You may also remember that one of the generically defined personality types is "Classic." I just want to clarify so there isn't any confusion in terms: Our goal here is not to transform your personality into the Classic type, but to help you be the classiest version of yourself. In fact, if you haven't done the fashion personality exercise, I recommend that you hop over to that post. To be the best version of your self, you first need to find out who you are!

That being said, I'm about to lay it on you, the first guideline of many, in no particular order, of "looking expensive." This guideline is about how to put colorful outfits together while keeping it classy, because patterns and color take more thought than going monochromatic. But that's obvious, so here it is...

THE RULE OF THREE COLORS: In the creation of an outfit, use three colors. A pattern counts as one "color." If you want more color, add it via a  non-foundational element, such as small pair of earrings. 

Why is this a good guideline, you say? To the human eye, there is something pleasing about things in three's. Limiting something to three gives it a look that it is unified enough to be visually cohesive, and therefore the mind can wrap around the "concept" of the outfit. Yet three is diverse enough to create visual interest, and "contrast excites the intellect."

image via  // Jenna Lyons via // Miroslava Duma via

Do I sound crazy? Put it to the test. Open your eyes to the outfits around you that just seem to "work." You'll notice this "rule" on the runway, in the best of the street style images, in celebrity style, and lookbooks. And awesome plus side? You can get started with this one right away, using the items already in your wardrobe!

How To Look Expensive: An Introduction

I have decided that I want to devote one or several posts to "How to Look Expensive," or how to look like you spend more on clothes than you really do. We covered some basics in the Budget Wardrobe Building series, but I want to get even more fundamental and talk in terms of creating individual outfits.

This series is for all who read this blog. For the broke college students, and the often equally broke new grads trying to break into a profession. For the moms trying to live balanced, beautiful lives amidst lots of responsibility and not so much money. For the white collar wife whose husband's above average salary is offset by eight children, student loans, and her decision to stay home and raise said children. This series is for all of these smart women who need to look good but can't or won't break the bank to do so.

This series isn't about keeping up with the Joneses. This series isn't about being a snob, or about ditching your fashion personality to become this lady:

source

No offense, Jackie. It is about being the best grown up, classy, elegant version of yourself. Interested? Stay tuned for more!

The Casual Uniform For Men...

According to Vince Granado

This is my first (and hopefully not last)  [Editor's note: definitely not last!] post for my dear friend Mary. My name is Vince Granado and I am an American expat living in Vienna, Austria. I moved here for work 5 years ago and I now consider this Imperial city as my home. Did I mention I met my beautiful wife here as well? It is a city of art, music and coffee and maintains a strong tradition to its rich history.

Anyways, living here for 5 years now has allowed me to learn the art of dressing appropriately for the occasion. I think it’s something that is much more common here than Stateside. One can see this in the evening gown and dinner jacket attire of the ball season to the coordinated jumpsuits of the Nordic -walking clubs that crowd the jogging paths every morning. In Vienna, there is a uniform everywhere for everything.

One thing I like a lot is the seasonal uniforms. Here in Vienna, once October comes around you’ll see the tweed jackets and flannel pants start to come out. In the spring, the linen and cotton suits start showing up. Topcoats, cashmere scarves, and shearling gloves are not uncommon with even the blue collar workers out here. The men know how to dress here, and it’s almost like it’s expected of you once you reach a certain age. For sure you won’t see a man wearing sweats and sneakers in any of the fine coffee houses out here, or in any casual setting for that matter.

With that said, I have come up with a casual uniform set for men that has worked for me in most of the casual social situations I have found myself in. These are my go to clothing on the weekends and after work. I can’t tell you how many times tourists ask me where something is when I’m walking in Stephansplatz, or how the Viennese shopkeepers on Mariahilferstrasse now speak to me in German rather than assume I’m a tourist. It feels good to blend in.

Clockwise from the left: Jacket – Blazer from Mango ($249, more affordable option from Uniqlo, $49), Watch – ($195, more affordable $54), White Oxford Shirt – ($70, more affordable $49), Silk Knit Tie ($15), Levi’s 511 Jeans ($35-$50), Belt ($29), Bass Weejun Loafers ($60), Chinos ($59)

All the pieces in the kit are versatile and work well with each other, and most likely with clothing that you already have. I would say that they can be used in nearly every casual setting1. Even better, these selections are pretty affordable. Besides the blazer and the watch (but I also included affordable alternatives) there is nothing over $75 in the kit, and if you keep your eye out you can easily get any of these items on sale.

This set revolves around one item, the white oxford cloth button down shirt (OCBD for short). This to me is the epitome of casual elegance. Gentlemen, my brothers, if you don’t have this item in your kit, you need to procure one immediately. The versatility of an OCBD makes it an essential piece that can paired with suits to swimming trunks (sometimes I even use mine as a night shirt). I would even go as far to say that if you are going only own one shirt, own this one. Moreover, there are so many makers and fits of this shirt that anyone with any body type can find a good fit. You just have to try on a few. My personal favourite is the vintage oxford from J.Crew.  I just want to emphasize the most important rule in dressing. Get the right fit!

I have included some sample pictures of how these look on a real person (me).

Budget Wardrobe Building: It's Time to Shop!

So we are coming to the end of the Budget Wardrobe Building Series. If you are just joining us, click here for the rest of the series (scroll to the bottom to go chronological style). There are a few more things to discuss. Now, only you know what your budget is, and what your list of needs and wants includes, but I can give a few general tips that might make getting what you need easier.

Spend more on pieces that will last multiple seasons, and items where quality really varies by price range. For example, a basic tee at Gap will cost you $19.99 and a similar one is $8 at Target. The difference in quality doesn't merit the difference in price. On the other hand, certain items like outerwear will have more meaningful quality to price relationships. So, make sure to get the most for your money.

Look for quality in shoes, especially those that are more than just special occasion wear. In the category of footwear, price and comfort are often directly related. Non-leather materials don't adjust to the shape of the foot and will often rub and cause blisters. Cheap heels are often unbearably uncomfortable. Don't worry if your budget is small, if you shop smart you can get great shoes for the price of awful ones, but more on that in a minute.

Look before you buy. If I know that I want something, I start looking for it in a multitude of places online, just to get a feel for variety in style and price range. There are a thousands of variations of the pencil skirt, the blazer, the little black dress. Details do make a difference; get a feel for them before you take the financial plunge.

Browse in person. Start at the highest end and work your way down. See the styles and feel the fabric that cost top dollar. Like I said before, details make a difference. Browsing should be an education; it will help you know quality when you see it. This knowledge is invaluable in recognizing the best thrift store finds and avoiding the pitfalls of cheaply made yet expensive goods (yep, they're out there, in abundance).

And related to the previous tip... Know what real leather looks and smells like, and see the difference between high quality and low quality leather. Similarly, all wool (even 100% wool) isn't created equal. Be aware that there can be huge variations in quality even in the same material.

Look outside the box. Don't limit yourself to the usual department stores. Once you know exactly what you want, hit the thrift stores, resale shops (like Clothes Mentor), consignment shops, ebay, etsy, and estate sales (great for unique accessories!).

Some people are weirded out by "used" shoes, whether from the thrift store or a consignment shop. I encourage you to reconsider this position. I have often seen like new or new with tags shoes in such places, so it's worth a look. I would advise you to avoid anything that has signs of wear or was cheap to begin with.

Check the clearance racks. As far as regular retail, I have often had excellent luck with the clearance rack at DSW. Sign up for the free loyalty program and you will occasionally receive $$ off coupons. I combined a couple such rewards (one issued for my birthday, another for accumulated points from previous purchases) and ended up paying $19.99 for a pair of leather heels that were originally $100.

Buy at the end of the season. Get what you need most urgently, but don't be afraid to start thinking ahead to the next several seasons. Last fall, I purchased a pair of leather sandals from PIPERLIME that originally retailed for $75. Because of drastic markdowns, I paid a third of that price. Is the wool of your winter coat worn? Coats are drastically reduced right now; start looking!

Sign up for email notices from your favorite retailers. Never miss a coupon code or sale. This practice also helps you get a feel for how big and how often sales occur. Such knowledge is key when deciding whether to buy or hold out for a lower price.

Check into store cards. Do you use a credit card frequently? It seems that more and more people are doing so for everyday purchases such as gas and groceries because debit cards are more vulnerable to theft. Let me be very clear, I never recommend going into debt for clothing, or paying interest on credit card balances. Yet, if you regularly use a card and aren't getting much in the way of rewards you might want to look into a different credit card. Gap, Banana Republic, and Old Navy cards offer rewards that can be used for any of those three retailers and Athleta and PIPERLIME, and also special cardholder sales. Other retailers also often offer rewards for in and out of store purchases, so if you regularly buy items in such a place, it might be worth looking into. Please note that store cards often have higher interest rates than other credit cards, but if you don't carry a balance that fact is irrelevant.

Do you have any tips to share with the budget wardrobe builder?

Budget Wardrobe Building: The Capsule Concept

After organizing your closet last week, and thinking about your needs and wants (for your wardrobe), I'm sure that you are raring to get moving with the planning process. Since this series is about wardrobe building on a budget, I want to introduce you to the capsule wardrobe concept.

The term hails from the 1970's and the mind of Susie Faux, a British shop owner, author, and personal style guru of sorts. At it's essence, a capsule wardrobe is a collection of items that won't quickly go out of fashion, that can be updated occasionally with seasonal pieces. The total number varies based on lifestyle and budget, but the general principles are less is more, quality over quantity. The elements originally suggested as key were trousers, a dress or skirt, a jacket, a coat, two pairs of shoes and two bags, all in neutral colors. The wardrobe was then to be rounded out with tops and accessories such as scarves, sunglasses, jewelry for a total item number between 20-25.

In the 1980's, Donna Karan brought the concept to an even greater public and level of distillation when she introduced her "Seven Easy Pieces" workwear collection. The collection consisted of a body suit, wrap skirt, chiffon blouse, longer jacket, leggings, blazer, and dress. In 2009, Karan released a collection that updated the key pieces to turtleneck, skirt, pant, jean, jacket, and coat.

So what does this mean for us budget wardrobe builders? It means that by choosing certain pieces we can create a small wardrobe, one that functions effectively for all the situations we find ourselves in, and that is both durable and current. Within our overall wardrobe, there will be smaller seasonal wardrobes, and key pieces will often work across multiple seasons. If you are just beginning the building process, creating such a wardrobe can seem overwhelming. I highly recommend beginning with your immediate needs for this season. You can break it down even further into finding eight pieces you can wear in a variety of ways right now.

So, here we go.  Keeping in mind the items that survived the culling...

Choose a color story (look here for an example).

Focus first on the basics - choosing tops and bottoms. Going for eight total, settle on a ratio (i.e. five tops / three bottoms).

Decide on a mix and match or a spectrum technique. Mix and match means that all bottoms and tops are various colors of the color story and can be worn together. Spectrum means that all the bottoms are the same color, and the tops are various colors from your color palette. 

Choose one neutral for shoes and bags.

Choose either gold or silver for bag hardware and other accessories (silver for cool complexions, gold for warm).

Once you have these eight basics working hard for you, start to look beyond your immediate needs. Think about your day to day needs and activities as they play out through the year. Go back to your note taking. Maybe Donna or Suzie's key pieces don't fit your lifestyle or personality (bodysuit, anyone?); I listed them more to give you a general starting point for pieces to consider rather than a list to copy. This is the point where you need to decide your key pieces.

Even if you don't have the money to go out and purchase them now, you need to make a list of what would make your wardrobe most functional. If you do have the resources immediately, keep in mind that you want the key pieces to last, so go for the best quality you can afford and keep the colors and cut to a more classic look (anything too faddish and you won't want to wear it longer than one season). If trendy is your thing, update tops and accessories frequently.

For example, for someone creating a personal casual wardrobe (for a four season climate) on a budget, I would make the following list:

KEY PIECES:

1 pair bootcut jeans (to be worn with heels or boots/ "date night" jeans)
1 pair straight or skinny jeans (hemmed to wear with flats)
1 pair of trousers (cropped for a fresh look)
1 skirt

1 sweater
1 blouse or button down shirt
1 twin set
1 LBD
1 casual dress

1 short jacket (blazer or other style)

1 coat

[and if you've got the first two covered] 1 belted trench

1 pair of heels
1 pair of flats
1 pair of boots

1 day bag
1 clutch

3 bras: 2 nude, 1 black
1 swimsuit

OTHER ITEMS:
inexpensive v-neck tees, tanks and/or other shirts
belt
scarves
jewelry

Thanks for sticking with me this far! If you want to see wardrobe building in action, check out the  transitional and warm weather wardrobe I have been working on for myself. Also, please give me feedback!

I won't be posting on Friday because of the Holy Day. See you next week!

Budget Wardrobe Building: Organize & Take Stock

As promised, we are going to talk a little bit more today about your closet. If you've already done the overhaul, I'm betting that you are looking at a much tidier closet and dresser already. Congratulations! Do you have a  sense of relief, or possibly even freedom? That is how I felt after getting rid of things that I had been hanging onto for years. Now a few tips on organizing what remains, and then we'll move on to the more fun stage of wardrobe planning.

I have found that it is best to keep only the current season's clothes present in my dresser and closet. It leaves more space for the objects you are using regularly; if you can see an item, it is less likely to "fall through the cracks," so to speak. Formal and semi-formal dresses are the one exception that I make to this rule. In my closet, I have a moderately narrow dresser on the left (actually in the closet because the bedroom isn't large). In the dresser I keep undergarments, jeans, t-shirts and un-hang-able tops, gym and sleeping clothes.  On the right side of the closet [starting from the left] I hang jackets, then dresses, then blouses, then dress pants, all on wooden hangers (the hangers came with my husband when we married, but Ikea has wooden hangers 8/$3.99 here). Within each category of clothing, I arrange the items by type and then by color. To the far right I hang scarves and belts.

On top of the dresser, I have a three level shoe rack where I keep whatever shoes are in regular rotation and special occasion heels. I highly recommend a shoe rack. It's super easy to grab a couple pairs to try on when deciding what to wear, and just as easy to put them away. Shoes can also breathe when stored this way. Shoe racks are relatively inexpensive on Amazon or at the local hardware store, or you can use a small bookshelf. Other solutions include storing shoes in their box with a pic taped to the outside, or using clear plastic shoe boxes. The local dollar store carries clear plastic shoeboxes for $1 each, and they are actually very sturdy.

To diverge a moment... If you don't already own a full length mirror, get one! In order to look great, you need to be able to see yourself, all at once, in a mirror (there is no judgement here if you don't own one, I went almost a year without one after mine shattered, but get on it and get one). I have this one from Target. It is $5.99. Again, I say, get one!

Now that things are tidy and paired down, play dress up.  Maybe you can find lots of outfits or maybe not so many; keep an open mind and play with what you have. Take pics and notes. Jot down ideas about what would make your wardrobe more functional. Also consider if there is a discernible color story present in the items that survived the culling. If so, is it one that you like, or does it need to be tweaked?

Now, pour yourself a cup of coffee (why don't you make it wine? You deserve a reward for making it this far!), and sit down and think about your needs. What does a week in your shoes look like? Do you have regular special events that require special outfits? Think about the season, and any special needs that it brings (e.g. swimsuit, heavy coat, etc.). It is very important to get all of these items and ideas down on paper. Once you have done so, you can begin to really create a list of needs and wants, and prioritize and reconcile them within your overall budget. Tune in next week to learn about creating a capsule wardrobe based on what you've discovered today, and how to do so on a budget.

Budget Wardrobe Building: Clean Out That Closet!

Hopefully I have already convinced you of the importance of wardrobe building rather than collecting; now let's get down to business! The first step to building a wardrobe on a budget is to clean out the closet (to see the other steps, in list form, look here).  Do not skip this step, no matter how anxious you are to get planning and shopping! A closet purged of useless clutter is absolutely essential to a highly functioning wardrobe. To make today's task as painless and straightforward as possible, keep in mind a clear goal -  to get rid of any items that are of no use to you (read, they don't make you look and feel great).

Grab a beverage and head to the closet. If it isn't large and well lit, pull out items belonging to the current season (warm or cold) and put them on the bed. Go through the items adding them to one of four piles: KEEP, MAYBE, STORAGE, and GOODBYE (i.e. donate, consign, or trash).Let me give you a few guidelines to help you in the discernment process:

Add an item to the keep pile only if it fits, the color works for you, and you feel good in it.

Say goodbye if an item is worn out and cannot be fixed. Check pant hems and cuffs for fraying. Look for spots, pilling, fading, and stains (don't forget those armpit areas).

Say goodbye to any items that you just do not like (it sounds obvious, but you might be surprised).

If you love the color and fit, but still don't ever wear an item, ask yourself why. Is it because you don't have pants that work with it, or is it because it just feels too [insert any number of adjectives here]? Ask yourself if [that adjective] could be played down, or if it's a lost cause. For example, a dress has some frilly detailing around the neckline, and you aren't into frills. BUT, the dress fits in a flattering way and is obviously very high quality.  Could you throw a no-nonsense blazer over it and feel like yourself? You be the judge. If after some such grueling soul searching, you still don't know, put it in the maybe pile.

Put any items in the maybe pile that could have real potential with a little tweaking. For example, would you love that sweater if the buttons weren't so cheesy? Would you wear that skirt if it flattered your figure a bit more? Maybe it would if the hem hit an inch above the knee instead of right across it. Would that dress be in regular rotation if you weren't constantly worried about a wardrobe malfunction? Some fixes are not complicated or expensive. Take your item to a good seamstress and just ask what can be done (and for how much).

Beware of keeping items because you have a preconceived notion that no wardrobe is complete without X. If you haven't worn it in the last year, you probably don't need it in your wardrobe.

Beware of keeping an item simply because you may need it. If you haven't worn it in the last year, you probably don't need it. I used to be guilty of this; I was on such a tight budget during college that I was scared to get rid of anything. After awhile, the drawers were so packed and overflowing with stuff "I may need someday" that my wardrobe was not functioning. I kept up a steady rotation of the same few items that worked and missed out on some other great ones that were tucked in amidst a bunch of losers.

Put any keepers you aren't currently using into storage. For example, don't waste precious space on sweaters during the summer, or on maternity clothes if you're back to you pre-pregnancy size. While you're at it, remove anything from your drawers and clothing shelves that is not clothing. It's so easy to start using those nooks and crannies for other purposes ("husband will never find his birthday gift now!"); resist!

Now, by this point, everything should be in one of four piles. Go through the maybe pile one last time. Still not sure if this or that item looks great on you? Try it on and take a picture. A friend of mine suggested this practice to me, and it really is about as honest as it gets!

Don't worry if there isn't much in the keep pile. The items that are going weren't doing you any favors and you probably weren't wearing them (or shouldn't have been wearing them!) anyway. There is a tried and true wardrobe system that proposes eight pieces (!) plus shoes and accessories are enough for any given wardrobe (i.e. work, personal casual, etc). It sounds radical, but I guarantee you that you will dress more creatively (it's a paradox, I know), with greater ease, and with a better finished product - a super stylish you! So, get cleaning, ladies! Next week we'll talk about organizing what remains, and  taking stock of needs and wants.

Looking Good Guilt

Recently a reader wrote to me the following words, "I have a really hard time not feeling guilty spending money on clothes. It seems that it would be better to donate the money or spend it on bills and have to's." She went on to ask if I could touch the topic of taking care of oneself, and justifying the expense of doing so. A timely request, because I was planning on addressing the topic of wardrobe building in contrast to wardrobe collecting. The question and my topic go hand in hand; it will become clearer how in just a moment.

A lot of women feel this way, guilty, that is, about spending money on matters of personal appearance. Many such women are mothers, and running a house and home means that the food, clothing, shelter, and education (not to mention recreation) needs seem to never stop. And maybe money is even tighter because the decision has been made to try to make it on one income for the sake of the kids. If you are one of these women, please, hear me out. I know you want to.

First of all, I think it helps to see the maintenance of one's personal appearance as a "have-to", to borrow the words of the inquiring reader. We all have to wear clothing, we all have to get hair cuts, we all have to follow the basic rules of hygiene. I don't think that any guilt ridden soul out there would deny these facts. And unless you are shopping at some store I'm unaware of, even ugly clothes aren't free. So, like it or not, the mere fact that you live in a civilization means that you are spending some resources on your appearance.

Secondly, you are worth it. You are an individual of inestimatable dignity and worth. You are beautiful and it is not vain to desire to be found beautiful. Not only is it in your nature to desire beauty, it is also your birthright to "subdue the earth." In general, this concept means to subordinate and coordinate the material world to higher purposes.  Even in things as apparently trivial as what one chooses to wear, the opportunity to put the stamp of personal creative genius on a material reality exists. In utilizing the resources around you to bring out your best and most beautiful features, you are using your "talents" of both rationality and unique physical attributes.

And finally, the people in your care are worth it and so is your role, whether it is outside the home or not. I know it's something of a cliche, but dressing well truly is a gift to those around you. And this is true in more than just the obvious aesthetic sense; when you feel confident and prepped for action, you just take care of business better. And who doesn't want to be better at whatever it is they do? And yes, I do understand that life can be hard at times, but dressing the part doesn't make it any easier. Rather than serving as a visual chastisement to those around you, choose to be a reminder that life is beautiful, too.

So what's a girl to do when money is an issue, but she still wants to look her best? She needs to build her wardrobe according to her budget, rather than collecting. Collecting is my term for what happens when you don't give your wardrobe thought - random purchases, emotional splurges, indiscriminate acceptance of sister hand me downs, and last minute panic buys, the sum total of which is a packed closet and nothing to wear. Building is everything collecting is not. It is determining what looks best (according to your body type and coloring) and makes you feel fabulous because it expresses you. Building means getting rid of everything in your closet that doesn't meet this standard. Building means planning out what you need to optimize the pieces that survived the culling and to meet your current needs. And finally, it means acquiring those pieces methodically. Sum total of building? A smaller but highly  functioning wardrobe that does justice to you.

Even if you think you have no budget for your wardrobe, you will be surprised what happens when you start thinking and planning. Like I pointed out above, looking bad isn't free (in more ways than one!). By acting with intention you will make less mistakes that cost you money. When a gift card comes your way or a family member insists that you tell them what to get you for Christmas, you will know what to do because you are prepared!

Budget Wardrobe Building Take Two

As I sat down to write the next post on this topic of budget wardrobe building, I found myself about to give you a list of the must have "basics," but then I realized I wasn't really starting from the beginning, or the beginning as it occurred in my own building process. Then I began to wonder if I had gotten ahead of myself by starting this show with a color post. Well, I can't turn back time, but I will do the next best thing  - start over!  I drew a little outline of what I consider to be the planning and building process. And then it dawned on me, maybe I should start by sharing this list with the readers, and then expand on it gradually. It goes something like this:

Building a Wardrobe on a Budget

1. Decide to build rather than collect 

2. Clean out the closet
3. Organize the closet

4. Determine what type of wardrobe (s) you need (ex. business, personal casual)

5. Take stock of what you have 

      - Play dress up 

      - Take notes and pics

6. Choose 1 or more color story 

7. Make two lists: Need and Want (based on activities, pieces already owned, season)

8. Determine a budget and timeline

9. Prioritize lists

10. Browse retail sources (start at high end) to familiarize with pieces

11. Think outside the box to buy

      - Thrift store

      - Resale Stores (like Clothes Mentor) 

      - Consignment Shops

      - eBay

      - Sales (sign up for email notifications from retailers you like)

      - Buy out of season

So, I'm starting this series over (I can do that, right? Ah, humility...), and I will spend some time talking about each of the things on the list. Now that you have a framework, you can get started on your own if you wish, or move at a more leisurely pace with me. What do you think? Happy Wednesday, all!